Radiator Expansion Water Tank Cap Compatible for Fiesta Focus C-Max Mondeo

Product Information

You can buy products in Halfords to seal leaks. There is no need to drain the coolant, just remove enough from the filler tank and add and follow the instructions. There is a lot of pressure in the cylinder head so how effective a seal you could get here is debateable, I wouldn't do that, and I probably wouldn't buy the kit they use, but it should be possible to adapt another form of pump. If there was no overheating, the water pump replacement is a bit suspect, but is unlikely to have caused a head gasket failure, which seems to be suspected by the OP.

If you need to repair your car’s air conditioning, we have all the parts you could want, including accumulators, actuators and compressors. I can’t say that doesn’t happen, but I would have thought it was fairly unusual, since thermostat removal is/was quite a common bodge/workaround for overheating problems. I suppose you could “tune” it with a blanking plate with a hole in it, to provide less but still some restriction. Never remove the coolant reservoir cap when the engine is running or still hot. Let it cool down first.If the coolant level is low, add the correct coolant to the reservoir (not the radiator itself). You can use diluted coolant by itself or a 50/50 mixture of concentrated coolant and distilled water. I did, however, realise that there are sometimes no bleed points, because I think that's all I've ever had on any of my cars. Can't remember it being a problem before. The mechanic I used took another look at it today and has returned it to me stating that it is in fact a problem with the head, stating he ran some tests and found gas to be escaping and entering the coolant system. He has now offered a short term solution by saying he can apply some sort of leak repair stuff which requires the coolant system to be flushed then the additive put in with new coolant. Does anybody have any experience with this and if so, how long is it likely to withhold? My car is due to have it's MOT in February, how likely is it to pass this? Your car’s heating and cooling systems are important factors in having a comfortable ride all year round, but especially in extremely hot or cold conditions. Car Cooling System

The reservoir has a fill range marked on the side. If your engine is cold, the coolant level should be up to the cold fill line.IIRC, the OP did not tell us the reasons for the water pump replacement, referring only to a coolant leak, but the reservoir blowing was said to follow-on from it, As well as the temperature issue, the engine seems to start struggling, stuttering/jerking a little when I am pulling away from idle or accelerating (particularly in low gears) after I have been driving for about 20-25mins, although varies depending on how hot of a day it is so I assume this relates to overheating? The motion is similar to that when you're close to stalling but not quite as bad yet. A colleague has suggested that it could be head gasket related, however this was previously ruled out by a mechanic (and I have hoped and prayed that it isn't as I don't want it to conk out entirely one day on my way to work/home). Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I am desperately trying to keep the car going until Sept/Oct when I will be looking to replace it altogether.

If you are not loosing coolant I too doubt if you have a head gasket leak. Yes the garage can test for gases in the coolant but if you have a leak then if the gas comes out into the coolant then coolant would pass the same way when stationary. and be lost. The most obvious valid reason for replacing a water pump would be an overheating incident due to actual or suspected water pump failure . The leak has definitely been repaired and despite the coolant bubbling after every trip to/from work, it doesn't look to have decreased in volume in the reservoir. The running temp (on the dashboard at least) seems to be normal, the only thing that's changed is that the fan boots in a lot sooner than it ever had done beforehand (I don't really expect it to have to come on for a 25 minute drive on residential roads). One thing I have noticed is that the fan doesn't seem to come on if I run the heater inside the car. Not entirely sure why this is, but in all honesty I know next to nothing about the internal workings of cars, hence why I went to a mechanic in the first place! I have a couple of fridge compressors that I could try, but I'm getting used to the boiling method so I probably won't bother..

Search the forum

Open the hood and locate the engine coolant reservoir. It is often a translucent white color, and has hose(s) connecting it to the radiator. Heater in a car acts the same as the radiator under the bonnet, which is why when the engine starts overheating its a help to use the heater in the car on max hot to help keep engine cooler Note that I’m assuming a “classic” mechanical thermostat here. If its something more modern, perhaps controlled via satellite downlink from a CIA Cray Supercomputer at Langley, this may not be possible.) It will however, also slow your engines warmup times, and if you’ve got any starting difficulties now, perhaps from a bit of coolant getting into the cylinders, they’ll probably get worse. This may be tolerable, at least for the summer.