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Third day, I dry sanded again and then just applied Watco danish oil 3rd coat directly without wet sanding.
On previously stained or dyed surfaces it is advisable to test a small area first to make sure that the Danish Oil will produce the desired result. If you'd like to try an experiment on a less important piece or on some scrap, there's no absolute need to sand between every coat – no matter if sprayed, wiped on or applied by brush/roller – you can build up many coats of finish until you have a good film and wet sand in one stage at the end.But the finish's success depends on the application's quality, the Danish oil used, and the type of oak.
Whilst you are oiling, you do not want the hard-wax (resin) sitting freely on the surface, living a life of its own.The performance of Danish Oil will continue to improve naturally for a week or two after application. When you apply Danish oil, it soaks into the bare wood and, when it’s dry, gives you a hard and durable finish that has a lovely soft sheen.
Briefly, the dry time between coats is just enough to make putting on the next coat work well but the product is likely not fully dry by then and it's certainly not cured (the part of the drying process that occurs after the drying phase). I assume as it's got a slight sheen the surface must be massively smoother than my crappy xmas trees so maybe I'll have better success with the wax this time.Always test product on a spare surface or inconspicuous area for colour, compatibility and end result. I can't remember where I read all this I am afraid or the underlying logic but it seems to work for me. At the end of the day it's a personal judgement, but I suspect that almost everyone would conclude that Bubinga isn't a timber where you need fret about darkening or yellowing. Danish Oil can be used on all types of wood (oak, pine, beech, walnut etc) and on wood used in any environment. Whilst you do need to apply the oil liberally, it’s also important not to let it puddle and wipe away any excess after it’s soaked into the surface for a few minutes.
If you want to sand between the layers of oil, just lightly rub over the surface with some 320 or 400-grit sandpaper to remove any raised grain and then wipe away the dust before applying the next coat of oil. DANISH OIL: Our Danish Oil has been formulated to prime, seal and finish any wood surface as well as re-oiling wood for maintenance. Ensure the surface is clean and dry before application, and any old oils or waxes have been removed, if restoring an item.I've read that Danish Oil will continue to seep out of the pores of red oak, sometimes for days after it's applied. How did you apply the danish oil, if using it outside it is suggested that you apply with a brush and flood the surface, not removing any excess. I haven't tried this but she said to place a piece of clean, dry cloth over the area and run an iron, at a very low temperature setting, over the area.
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